San Fereolo Langhe Rosso '1593' 2011

‘1593’ refers to the date of the first written documentation of Dolcetto in the archives of Dogliani. It’s a fitting title since Nicoletta Bocca has made it her life’s work to reveal this grape’s profound connection to her special zone and its proud status among the most expressive and age-worthy wines in the Piemonte. Made from her best and oldest parcels only in the best vintages, the ‘1593’ is a wine that pushes Dolcetto to the outer limits. Nicoletta utilizes extended aging to maximum effect, with the wine spending six long years in large cask before transferring to tank and bottle for a further four years. This wine opens with a dusky, dazzling nose – a prescription-strength hit of savory Piemontese essence – soft leather, dried potpourri, and a touch of tobacco box mingling with black pepper, hoisin, and a trace of licorice. Beneath the savory depth, a bright cherry perfume rises with a lift of acidity, giving the wine an immediate sense of energy. On the palate, it’s rich but never heavy, the wild, dark, brambly fruit framed by crisp, warm tannins that glide rather than grip. Subtle tertiary notes of spice and leather unfold with each sip, striking a perfect balance between refinement and untamed character. The wine’s label lists several revelatory, if quasi-occult, events from 1593 – from the of genesis of Shakespeare’s sonnets to the persecution of philosopher Giordano Bruno – culminating with Dolcetto’s aforementioned first appearance in the archives; this bottle does such a lineage justice, telling the story of impeccable fruit that has spent enough time evolving to impart upon us something truly compelling.  Only 1800 bottles produced.