Sincette Groppello Riviera Classico 2022

The story of Le Sincette lies right in the producer’s colorful labels. Splashes of purple for grapes, green for olive groves, a big dollop of blue denoting the nearby shores of Lake Garda, along with drawings of the plants and animals that grow there alongside the vines. Having purchased the property in the late 1970s, the Brunori family have spent the last 4 decades bringing light to some of Lombardia’s lesser known vinous stars such as Marzemino, Rebo, and, most importantly for them, Groppello. The Brunoris have taken their stewardship of this place to extreme lengths; not only were they one of the very first in the region (way back in 1997!) to adopt biodynamic approaches to managing their vineyards (they are also certified organic) but they went so far as to build their winery completely underground, both as a means of reducing their environmental impact (no need for temperature control) but moreover to preserve the historic farm buildings that existed there, which they have also now lovingly restored.

While Groppello has likely suffered somewhat on the international stage due to a muddied etymological past (it is known elsewhere in Lombardia, Emilia Romagna, and the Veneto by at least 5 other names), it’s most historic roots are found in the Valtenesi subzone of Lake Garda, right where Le Sincette is located. Pulled from the estate’s original vineyards that were planted in 1978, the 2021 Groppello Garda Classico brings us right to the intersection of Lombardia old and new. Fermented naturally before aging for 4 months in a mixture of older barrels and cement tanks, the wine offers plenty of new age buoyancy and good-natured drinkability. Soft and tangy red berries dominate the fruit elements, with aromatics that oscillate between sweet and savory battling it out in the glass. Strawberry smoothie, fresh roses, and ginseng work in tandem with smoked meat, mushroom dashi, and rich, freshly tilled soil. Perfect when served with a light chill!